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Heide and Paul in Door County, 2009
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Fall Vacation in Door County, Wisconsin

by
Commodore Prof. Dr. Paul W. Margrave Gulgowski-Doliwa,
GCMS, GCDA, RCST, etc.

Photography and Illustrations Provided
by
Dame Heide Anna Maria Margravine Gulgowski-Doliwa,
GCMS, GCDA, RCST, etc.



The State of Wisconsin within the United States of America




Door County within the State of Wisconsin




Heide and Paul in Door County, October 2009


     Although avid world travelers, who truly enjoy God's global creations, we also take pleasure in hiding ourselves away from the adventures and pressures of intercontinental flight schedules and hotel reservations by visiting the rural tranquility of places not too often frequented by hoards of undiscriminating sightseers.

     The main attraction that Door County holds for us is its less commercialized character with much fewer neon lights than one encounters elsewhere in America. Its restaurants are primarily operated by families. Fast food chains are as good as non-existent in this pseudo-Scandinavian vacation paradise, which, in no uncertain terms, contributes to the wellbeing and health of visitors and locals alike.



Small Map of Door Peninsula with Washington Island


     The county of our refuge is named after the strait between the Door County Peninsula and Washington Island. The dangerous passage between them, long scattered with many shipwrecks, was quite well known to the local Potawatomi American Indian tribe and early French explorers. Because of the natural hazards of the strait, it received the French appellation Porte des Morts Passage, which translates in English to "Door to the Way of Death" or simply "Death's Door."



Picture of Tall Ships on Lake Michigan nowadays


     Luckily, nowadays, one does not have to travel through the Door of Death to reach Door County. One can reach this idyllic place either by taking Interstate Highways 41/42 or Highways 43/42 or, better still, a combination of narrow-lane country roads. We are always in the habit to take the road less traveled. It takes a little longer, but the enchanting vistas provided by the Kettle Moraine more than compensate for the loss of time.
     The Kettle Moraine was created when the Green Bay Lobe of an ancient glacier collided with the Lake Michigan Lobe of a glacier. The western glacier formed the Bay of Green Bay, Lake Winnebago and the Horicon marsh while the eastern one formed Lake Michigan.



Winter view of a small Wisconsin Kettle


     The Kettle Moraine is dotted with many varied-sized kettles caused by buried glacial ice that subsequently melted. This process left depressions ranging from small ponds to large lakes and enclosed valleys. This should suffice in explaining the geology of our home area in Wisconsin.




View of downtown Delafield pedestrian area


     Leaving downtown Delafield, we quickly reach the majestic site of Holy Hill Basilica in Erin, Wisconsin. Since this photograph does not really do justice to this Christian edifice, we also offer an aerial autumn view of this blessed house of God.




Holy Hill Basilica at a distance




Autumn view of Holy Hill


     Next, our country road takes us by many horse farms that are very prominent and pleasant to behold in this region of the country. The United States Army no longer maintains any cavalry units, not considering a few mounted color guards that are being maintained for ceremonial purposes only. However, America's metropolitan police departments continue to order their replacement horses from the horse farms pictured below. (Sorry, when these photographs were taken, autumn and cloudy-sky weather dominated the scenery.)




Horse farm in Wisconsin




Horse farm in Wisconsin


     Other, general purpose farms are also prominent and in abundance in Wisconsin, as may be seen below.




Entrance to a farm in autumn colors




Pumpkins are for sale




The Tondale farm




Yet another picturesque farm


     As our esteemed readers will have undoubtedly noted, the preeminent color of most Wisconsin farms, especially the barn and outbuildings, is red. This is an old Swedish tradition, allowing for farm buildings to be more easily recognizable during blizzard conditions in the winter months.

     The following structure represents an old and rare Kettle Moraine dwelling that has been constructed to be partially covered by an earthen wall. This has the purpose of allowing this house to retain its interior warmth with greater proficiency.



Typical early Kettle Moraine dwelling

     As our traveling day progressed driving ever further north, the sun eventually made one of its several short-duration appearances, allowing us to enjoy the fall foliage of the Door Peninsula forests.



Road leading to our destination in Door County

     Eventually, the Door County Tourist Information Office comes into sight. We have finally arrived! Heide and I are always amazed about the efficient duty discharge of its totally customer-oriented and dedicated staff. Often we wonder how, despite all the administrative work going on in this spacious building, the employees still find time to operate what seems to be a highly benevolent, free-of-charge bicycle rental service.



Door County Tourist Information Office

     At last, we are parked at one of our favorite restaurants in Rawley's Bay, Door County.

     Waiting for the doors to open, Paul breaks cover on a book he wanted to read since a long time.



Waiting for the restaurant to open

     "Grandma's" Restaurant at the Wagon Trail Resort is finally ready to accommodate us. Our valued readers are invited to inspect the immensely clean premises of this ethnic eatery that was established two generations ago by hardworking Swedish immigrants.



"Grandma's" immaculate Swedish Restaurant

     Finally, we are being served. The dinner buffet has never disappointed us in this particular establishment.



We are being served

     To track back into early American history for a little while, for historians like Heide and me, it is our duty to mention that American Indian peoples have inhabited the Door Peninsula for about 11,000 years. Artifacts from an ancient village site at Nicolet Bay Beach have been dated to about 400 BC. This site was occupied by various Native cultures until about 1300 AD.

     During the 1800s, mostly Potawatomi Natives resided in Door County. They were removed from the peninsula by the federal government under President Andrew Jackson's Indian Removal Act of 1830. However, very much like all people, who carry the torch of love for their country in their hearts, the Potawatomi soon found their way back to the grounds of their ancestral homes.



Flag of the Citizen Potawatomi Nation of Wisconsin
(By the way, the word Potawatomi translates into People of the Place of the Fire.)

     The Door Peninsula eventually was settled by Norwegian, Danish, but most of all Swedish immigrants during follow-on times. The founder family of the Wagon Trail Resort is exceedingly proud of its Swedish ancestry and cultural association, as manifested by the two photographs provided below. Similar sentiments hold true for other permanent Door County residents with Scandinavian roots.



Knowing one's roots is absolutely essential




Not knowing one's heritage and point of origin makes a person tumbleweed in the wind


     Our next vacation day was rained out. Still, this is no reason not to have a good time while venturing out to reconnoiter the countryside. The advantages enjoyed in such weather basically amount to drastically reduced traffic on roads and highways and unoccupied parking spaces wherever one goes.



Heide enjoys her vacation despite the rain




The almost vacant parking area in front of our favorite hotel




Paul in front of a small souvenir shop




Quaint little gift and gourmet shops


     During the summertime, fishing and small-harbor activities are in abundance in Door County, as witnessed by the boat crew, consisting of Captain Paul and sleeping First Mate Terry, pictured below.




Summertime fishing adventure


     Now, during autumn, weather conditions on our favorite peninsula are constantly changing, with rain providing the principal meteorological element.




The fishing season is nearly over as the single remaining fishing boat testifies


     With a little bit of patience, the sun will not remain hidden for the entire day and a host of activities beckons to be attended to.




Paul enjoying his daily recreational walk on nearly deserted country roads




Paul satisfying his never ending curiosity about historical cemeteries


     Being a military-maritime oriented family, it fills our hearts with proud satisfaction that the people of Door County have not forgotten their most prominent local heroes.




     Monument dedicated to First Lieutenant E. Eugene Helgeson, Jr., who gave his life with valor during the Vietnam War on 6 March 1968. His decorations include the Silver Star, Distinguished Flying Cross, Air Medal and Purple Heart.




     Retired U.S. Army Major Paul next to the Helgeson monument, which is shaped in the form of a small light tower.




The Wagon Trail Hotel and Restaurant receiving the blessing of a mid-day sunshine




An inactive children's playground getting ready to hold its winter hibernation




Everywhere one encounters glimpses of Lake Michigan.




     An unexpected, unpretentious art gallery partially surrounded by the waters of Lake Michigan invites potential buyers.




Rear view of art gallery.




Heide in front of a small island situated close to the shores of Lake Michigan




Ephraim Village Hall constructed in Swedish architecture




Side view of Ephraim Village Hall


     Everywhere in Door County one observes artistic flower arrangements and landscaping. The county is dotted with quaint and picturesque dwellings of yesteryear, testifying to the hardiness of its early Scandinavian and northern European settlers.




Flowers everywhere




Flowers in church yard




Romantic cottage, private home




Old partial log house, still inhabited today




Privately owned log house




Log barn, serving as a craft mart




Small log house, still occupied today


     The inhabitants of Door County are, by and large, God-fearing, church-going people.
     Their places of worship vary widely, from the small and unpretentious to the large and formidable. Important in all of this is, however, that the folks here do go to church and listen to the word of God as promulgated by Jesus Christ, His Apostles and the faithful throughout the ages who gave testimony to His presence here on earth.




One of the first Norwegian places of worship
still featuring some of the pagan symbolisms
once so prevalent in Scandinavia




Side view of small Norwegian chapel,
presently only infrequently utilized




Roman Catholic church dedicated to Our Lady "Star of the Sea"




Large Lutheran church in the distance


     Fruit stands and produce shops are also in great abundance in Door County. The following two photographs will hopefully do this phenomenon justice.




Fruit shop in autumn splendor




Pumpkins galore exhibited around an edifice that, during its better days,
had seen appreciated service as a budget motel.
Even today, it is still a place where one can hide oneself away . . . hint . . .


     It is sheer amazing, just how many treasures have accumulated at the various antique malls and stores on this relatively small peninsula over time. Naturally, American antiques do not reach as far back in time as European antiques do. Nevertheless, those with the inclination and the necessary funds could purchase nearly everything for their houses to give them the aura of a very historic home, going back at least to the American Revolutionary War. The following photographs show some of those treasure troves mentioned above.




The largest antique mall on the peninsula




The probably second-largest antique mall on the peninsula


     Next to Grandma's Restaurant and Bakery at the Wagon Trail Resort, there are, of course, also other prominent restaurants featuring outstanding cuisine. The next two photographs portray an upscale restaurant featuring English fare, we, in the interest of our budget, did not sample. We were, however, very enchanted by its exterior appearance and exquisite landscaping.




English Inn Restaurant




English Inn Restaurant


     An idyllic restaurant that is not too heavy a burden on one's purse strings is "Al Johnson's Swedish Restaurant" in the community of Sister Bay.




Al Johnson invites his guests to enter


     Al's unique restaurant is a favorite for parents with children, because the little ones just stand in awe of the domestic goat feeding arrangement put in place by the Johnson family. Some adults also find it difficult to believe that goats can sustain their life on top of a restaurant's roof. However, for those of us who have seen wild goats in the Alps and the Andes, a goat habitat like the one pictured below does not represent to shabby a lifestyle for our horned friends.




Mr. Johnson's restaurant building roof also serves as a pasture for his goats


     The Swedish restaurant operated by the Johnson family offers excellent food, non-alcoholic wholesome drinks, delicious desserts and an adjacent shop features Scandinavian fashions and accessories. The latter are a favorite with the ladies. They just feel incomplete to walk out of Johnson's without a Swedish sweater, a Norwegian hat and Danish shoes. I, Paul, particularly enjoy the warm embrace from one of their beauty queen waitresses, who just know how to make a hungry traveler feel welcome.




In Johnson's restaurant one absolutely feels welcome
(or: The wolf and Little Red Riding Hood)


     The next day, we embarked upon exploring the remainder of the enchanting Door County peninsula, while enjoying the solitude, rest and recreation that the absence of too many people and too much noise guarantees.




The tranquility of travel on Door County roads is rejuvenating




Tall-grown, dense hedges serve as guarantors of privacy around secluded homes




Autumn presents itself in its finest, intense colors




Norwegian-style private home, showing itself off in all its solid splendor




A "cork-screw" road leads us to Gills Rock, the tip of the Door peninsula




The boat launch of a small fishing-boat harbor has seen
its last business for the season, and the sea gulls
have taken over the premises




Harbor House Inn at Gills Rock represents the last chance
for a weary traveler to find room and board




The trees have outgrown the heights of the last lighthouse of Gills Rock,
robbing it of its maritime function and relegating it
to serve as a tourist souvenir shop




At the very end of the Door County peninsula,
the tourist is greeted by the Washington Island ferry,
which takes the traveler for a modest fee a short distance
to the island seen beyond the stony break walls.
Washington Island is known for temperatures that are normally
10 degrees colder than on the peninsula proper




Paul, sporting fall colors of his own, while being photographed
in front of the season's majestic painting




This quaint Door County farm would fit harmoniously into any fairy tale book




Ominous clouds announce the early arrival of winter
in the northern portion of the American Midwest


     On our return trip from Door County, we cannot help but feel our heavy hearts as we are compelled to say good bye to this lovely part of God's universal and oh so beautiful creation.

     It was already dark, when the silhouette of Holy Hill Basilica finally appeared on the horizon, bidding us a heartfelt welcome home in the Kettle Moraine of Southeastern Wisconsin and Washington/Waukesha counties, our permanent, cozy and safe residence in the United States of America.




Holy Hill in the glowing sunset








Commander Valery Yegorov, GCMS
St. Andrew Principal Herold Master
The Russian College of Heraldry
Collegium Heraldicum Russiae


     On 22 February 2010 we learned of the impending hospitalization of our most dear and greatly appreciated friend Valery for 1 March 2010. Knowing just how precarious Valery's general health situation is, we immediately became deeply concerned about his overall well-being. Brainstorming just how we could prevail upon our Lord God to hold His protective hands over him, Heide and I resolved to make a pilgrimage to the Shrine dedicated to St. Mary, Mother of Jesus, at Holy Hill's Basilica National Shrine to pray for his speedy and uncomplicated recovery.




Paul standing near the entrance sign leading to
the Holy Hill Basilica recognized as a national shrine




Roadside monument, dedicated to St. Mary, surrounded by deep snow




Arial view of the Basilica




Road leading to the Basilica grounds




Many prayers have been answered at Holy Hill Basilica




Chapel within the Basilica, dedicated to private meditation
and the offering of prayers and candles




Paul offering a candle for divine intervention on behalf of Valery




The Basilica's steeples remind us of the power and glory of the Eternal God


     On 10 March 2010, we were informed of Valery's safe return from the hospital. He feels much improved and is on his road to recovery. He is presently convalescing at his comfortable home, surrounded by his caring and loving family.

PRAISE BE TO GOD IN THE HIGHEST FOR HAVING ANSWERED OUR PETITION

I, Valery, can hardly find the proper words to express
all of my sincere gratitude to my Dearest Friends Heide and Paul
for all of their thoughtfulness and most friendly involvement
May the Lord God bless them always!




The Coat of Arms of H. H. Chev. Commodore Prof. Dr. Paul William Margrave Gulgowski-Doliwa
can be seen HERE

The Coat of Arms of H. H. Chev. Lt. Colonel Paul W. Margrave Gulgowski-Doliwa II
can be seen HERE




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