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A TRAVEL TO KIEV
MAY 2009

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The Magnificent City of Kiev
on the Banks of the Mighty Dnieper River

by
Commodore the Chevalier
Dr. Paul William Margrave Gulgowski-Doliwa
GCMS, GCDA, RCST, etc.
and
his Gentle Spouse Dame
Heide A.M. Margravine Gulgowski-Doliwa
GCMS, GCDA, RCST, CStS-JC, etc.





St. Michael's Monastery, Kiev



St. Michael's Bell Tower

     Beautiful Kiev is the capital of the independent State of Ukraine. In the Russian language, Ukraine means borderland. It is located on the mighty Dnieper River, which, to the worldwide traveler, appears, at some locations, similar to the Mississippi River in the United States of America.

     At least two million people reside in this cosmopolitan city that exudes both, a classical ambience and a modern flair. Kiev is, for all practical purposes, the center point of the cultural life of Ukraine. It is the home of several universities and the Academy of Sciences, which includes nuclear science. Kiev is equally blessed with many libraries, museums and art galleries. This metropolitan area is the location of a cave monastery from the 11th century and as such enjoys great historical prominence.



Independence Plaza Kiev at night

     Kiev forms also the industrial heartland of the Ukraine. During its early history (882), it served as the capital for the Russian grand dukes. In the year 889 the city was recognized as the intellectual center of Russia, the result of the efforts of St. Vladimir. The Mongols destroyed Kiev in 1240. Approximately 80 years later it fell to Lithuania and when that grand duchy joined with the Kingdom of Poland, it also became an integral part of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. During the timeframe 1654-1667, Kiev and its surrounding areas were absorbed by Czarist Russia. After 1917, this special city served for the first time in the 20iest century as capital of an independent Ukraine. On 24 August 1991, Kiev and the Republic of Ukraine celebrated their first Independence Day after a peaceful separation from the Russian Federation, the former Soviet Union.



Miss Oksana Morozova, our interpreter, and Heide
in front of the Russian-Ukrainian Friendship Arc




Parking is permitted on Independence Plaza

     Because it is outright impossible to do justice to the historical bouquet of Kiev, especially since we spent only five days there, we decided to concentrate chiefly on a few of its most splendid churches. Regardless if large or small, they all looked divine to us. In this regard, we must pay tribute to St. Olga. She was the widow of Prince Igor, who was killed in 945, while attempting to exact particularly heavy tribute from a Slavic tribe. Thereafter she acted as Princess Regent on behalf of her son Sviatoslav.



Picture of St. Princess Olga, by Mikhail Nesterov

     In 957, Princess Olga visited Constantinople where she was lavishly received by Emperor Constantine Porphyrogenitus. It was during her stay in Constantinople that, according to the Russian Chronicle, Olga embraced Eastern Christianity. Although the sequence of events leading up to her conversion is contested, the fact remains, however, that she and Prince Vladimir I (her grandson who had managed to gain the upper hand against his brother, Yaropolk I) had successfully repudiated heathenism and established Greek Orthodoxy as the firm, official Church of Russia. This phenomenon also inspired architecture of obvious Greek origin that had an impact on the construction of official government buildings. Returning to Sts Vladimir and Olga, they were both canonized and rest today in glass sarcophagi within the Cathedral of St. Sophia.



St. Sophia Cathedral, Kiev

     Our walking tour through old, historic Kiev was planned and conducted by Miss Oksana Morozova, currently a senior English scholar at the National Ukrainian Aviation University in Kiev. Oksana is a strikingly beautiful young lady of delicate features, who is not just attractive, but also exceedingly intelligent. She speaks Ukrainian, Russian, German and English. Her parents, teachers and professors can be rightfully proud of her personal and intellectual development. We were extremely happy that good fortune assigned her as our guide and companion.



Oksana posing in front of the Stone
that commemorates the Beginning of Kiev

     The people of Kiev were always very kind and accommodating to us. To satisfy the curiosity of a dear and good friend of ours, we inquired about the present-day linguistic situation in the Republic of Ukraine. Oksana and a university professor, we met later on during our stay in Kiev, indicated that 40 percent of the population speak Russian, 40 percent speak Ukrainian and 20 percent speak a mixture of both, which is known as "Surzhyk."

     While in Kiev, it was our pleasure to reside at the Dnipro Hotel. One of the very few, but irrefutable benefits of jetlag is irregular sleeping hours, allowing us to take a photograph out of our hotel room window during early morning hours. Right outside of our room we could observe a large traffic triangle and the Lenin Cultural Center, which espouses many exhibitions.



Dawn in Kiev

     Although the sun eventually assumes the highest point of its orbit over the city, not all residential "nooks and crannies" attain full-daylight exposure. Yet, they look picturesque.



Back Alley Ambience

     While the facade of the Dnipro Hotel projects a rather business-like impression, its interior design and appearance are elegant and comfortable.



Dining Room Decor

Not too distant from our hotel was the Dynamo Kiev Stadium complex



Dynamo Kiev Stadium

     Just in case, the hotel ran out of coffee, one could easily walk a small distance around the corner and purchase a cup of "black gold" from a Starbucks-like coffee shop.



Starbucks-like Coffee Shop

     Those in need of spiritual comfort could climb the hill right behind the Lenin Cultural Center and visit the Church of Alexander. The street leading to this picturesque house of worship is long and steep enough to recall all one's sins over the last five years.



Church of Alexander

     Once on top of said hill, a vast and abundantly green park welcomes its visitors to an exquisite view over the left and right banks of the powerful Dnieper River.



View over the Dnieper River

     Following the rim of the Dnieper River overlooking hillside, one eventually arrives at the Republic of Ukraine Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Like so many public buildings in Kiev, the entrance arcade is mostly ornamented by Greek-style columns, which made at least these visitors think of Kiev as the Athens on the Dnieper.



Ministry of Foreign Affairs




St. Andrew's Church




Upscale apartments building near St. Andrew's Church




     Entrance to the Defense Department of the Republic of Ukraine. The guards were not necessarily pleased with our attempt to photograph them.

     Since our front view pictures of the Ukrainian Presidential Palace did not come out too well, our distinguished readership must be happy with the side view of the Presidential complex.




Side View Presidential Palace

     Army General Nikolai Fyodorovich Vatutin was the Commander-in-Chief of the 1st Ukrainian front during the Great Patriotic War (World War II), where he earned the distinction of Hero of the Soviet Union.




Army General Nikolai Vatutin

     The Parliament Building, housing the Legislature of the Ukrainian Republic. This edifice, too, very much like so many other public buildings we had the opportunity to see, exhibits Greek-type columns, among other things espousing to the Greek political philosophy that the people should rule.




Parliament Building




Heide and Paul are ready to attend their first social gala event in Kiev, Ukraine




Oksana, Heide and Paul
attending Orthodox Ukrainian church services prior to the Gala Ball




The motion picture studio that was selected to host the Nobility Ball in Kiev, Ukraine




Heide and Paul enjoy the "Red Carpet Treatment"
flanked by cadets of a College-preparatory Military Academy




     There is no doubt in our minds that Oksana made the heart of this teenage cadet beat a little bit higher. The commandant of cadets has his watchful eyes everywhere.




Noble Ukrainians desirous to have their picture taken with Heide and Paul



     Professor Galyna Suslova in conversation with Margravine Heide and Margrave Paul. Professor Suslova currently serves as the National Coordinator of ICAO Standards Implementation, ICAO Expert and Acting Director of ICAO European Regional Aviation Security Training Centre, which is colocated with the National Aviation University in Kiev. After Oksana's successful university study completion, she now works for Professor Suslova.




Guests getting acquainted with one another
The tables couldn't possibly carry any more weight




Heide and Paul in conversation before dinner is served




Enchanting Rococo children dancers delight the audience




Beautiful fashion models present the latest Ukrainian haute couture




Heide commenting to Paul on the presented high fashions




This lovely British lady is sneaking a picture with Paul, or better, with Paul's medals




Our readers are invited to enjoy one last look at
strikingly beautiful Oksana in her evening attire


     After ballroom dining, wining and dancing, a river cruise the next day serves well to clear one's mind and senses.




Paul Comes Aboard



     And, again, an inviting spread of good food and fine drinks welcomes the river-tour passengers.




     Once the food and the wine had been enjoyed, only song and dance by fascinating and colorful Sinti and Roma performers could save a day that for apparent purposes was gloomy and gray.




Coastal view from the Dnieper River boat




Please note the golden-domed chapel extending out into the river




     Everywhere one looks, new housing developments are springing up, whereby the spiritual element is not neglected, we were happy to note.


     Throughout our article, we offered ever-so-slight hints on the democratization of the Republic of Ukraine. On our last day in Kiev, we photographed from our hotel window a rather sizeable demonstration. The reason for demonstrating is not really important. Noteworthy, however, is the negligible police presence. Law enforcement seemed to have not been a great necessity, as the demonstrators behaved themselves in a democratically civilized manner, indicating their cultured and impeccable behavior. We have no intention of sounding patronizing in any way, we like our readers to understand. Obviously, the spirit of democracy has taken deep and enduring roots in Ukraine. Congratulations to all concerned!




Demonstration


     Already from the river boat, we noted a gigantic angel-like statue in the distance. We never came near enough to really investigate what it was and what it meant.

     But, we were curious enough to research it further. On the Internet, we found our explanation. The angel-like statue represents "Motherland-Kiev" and is located in the Great Patriotic War (World War II) Memorial Park of Kiev. Secretly though, we wish this statue to represent St. Michael, who may with his God-given powers protect this city, that a very good friend of ours, despite recent geo-political developments, refers to as the "Mother of all Russian Cities." We have no quarrel with him on this issue and feel that no city could be prouder than to serve two nations as a guiding model.




Motherland-Kiev




The Coat of Arms of Chev. Commodore Dr. Paul William Margrave Gulgowski-Doliwa
can be seen HERE

The Coat of Arms of Chev. Captain Paul William Margrave Gulgowski-Doliwa II
can be seen HERE




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